Melon Patch
There are four basic attributes I look for in a good melon: flavor, sugar content, juice, and aroma. I have distinct preferences among the varieties of melon, but the best variety in the world isn't going to be worth a nickel if it isn't ripe. Here's where you need to use common sense - and all your senses. Different varieties offer different clues for ripeness, but in general, you want to look for good color, good smell, and a little give to the melon - not soft but not brick hard.
Honeydew
"Friends are like melons - to find a good one you must a hundred try!!"
After cantaloupes and watermelons, probably the most familiar melons to Americans are honeydews. The rind is very smooth, greenish white to yellow in color, and the flesh is a cool lime green. An unripe honeydew is terrible, but a ripe one is probably the sweetest melon of all - and the prettiest. Honeydew is definitely one of my favorite melons.
All too often it's difficult to find a ripe honeydew, but it's not difficult to pick out a ripe one. The rind will develop a golden color and will actually become sticky outside. Never be afraid of a honeydew that has developed a bit of brown freckling on the rind - that's where it's tacky with sugar. The other clue to a ripe honeydew is a sweet, heady aroma. People tend to check the stem end of the melon to see if it's soft, but that's not going to tell you a thing. Good aroma, color, freckles, and a sticky feel are the telltale signs of a sweet honeydew.
In season, honeydews from California are the best. Unless you live in California, however, a ripe honeydew before August or after October is as rare as a blue moon.
Because ripe ones are fragile and hard to ship, 99 percent of those you see most of the year have been picked green, and they'll never ripen. From August through October, however, a new crop of honeydews is ripening in California, and they become ready so quickly the growers can't pick them fast enough. Lucky for you, because most of the honeydews end up staying on the vine until they're ripe and full of sugar. Start looking in August, and you'll rarely be disappointed
Crenshaw Melon
Another smooth-skinned melon and another favorite of mine, the Crenshaw is a very large melon with a green rind speckled golden-the more golden the color, the riper it is. Crenshaws have dense, golden-orange flesh and a smaller seed pocket than a honeydew. You will get more yield out of a Crenshaw than out of a honeydew the same size. Usually picked vine ripe the Crenshaw is an excellent melon-sweet and juicy. The peak season is almost the same as for the honeydew but a little longer-from July through December. There are two varieties: the golden Crenshaw from California, and a white variety grown in various states as well as in Chile and parts of Europe. I think the golden variety is the best.
If it's not ripe, a Crenshaw will taste like squash, but unlike the honeydew, a firm Crenshaw will ripen at room temperature, provided it's not grass green. If it has a little break of yellow on the rind, leave it out until the speckling on the rind turns a deep golden bronze color.
Because Crenshaws may weigh up to ten pounds, most farm stands and many supermarkets sell it cut. Even if the flesh is a good orange color, the melon may not be mature, so if you want to buy a half, turn it over and look at the rind: it should be a golden bronze color. It it's not, it won't be sweet.
As a rule, however, Crenshaws are picked ripe and they're very sweet. They're also expensive. When I was a kid, my father used to buy rejects that showed a few spots of mold. A little mold on a Crenshaw (unlike other melons) won't penetrate the flesh or affect the taste-just cut the spot off. My mother used to station herself at the fruit stand with a pile of spotted Crenshaws, cutting them and giving the customers a taste. We sold hundreds and hundreds of Crenshaws that way. It you can find one that's been marked down because it has a little spot of mold on it, grab it.
Galia Melon
The Galia is one exception to the rule that good melons only come in the late summer and fall. This import is fairly new to Americans, introduced to us by Israel. Galias are now grown in California, Chile, and a few other places, and while they are good, to my mind Galias from Israel are still by far the best. The Israelis have the culture down to a science, and growers there won't pick the melons unless they're mature and have a high sugar content. They are shipped from Israel beginning in November and ending as late as March, with the peak from November through February-just when local melons are out of season, substandard, or simply not available.
Galias basically look like cantaloupes, but the rind is much more golden and the flesh, which is an appealing pale green, has a texture more like that of a honeydew. Galias are very sweet, very juicy, and have a smooth texture. They're also very costly-a Galia the size of a cantaloupe goes for $3.50 to $4.00 in most markets. But I figure you have two choices: you can spend $1.99 and get a tasteless, out-of-season melon or you can spend $4.00 and get something that's good to eat.
Sharlyn Melon
Another new variety that's not yet well known, the Sharlyn is a terrific melon-I think it may be my favorite. The rind is like that of a Persian melon: it's netted and ranges in color from a light golden beige to nearly mahogany brown. This melon is very large, oblong, and fat, with white flesh that has a great flavor and sweet fragrance and is full of juice. Usually very mature when picked, Sharlyns average eight or nine pounds apiece, and they can grow as big as fifteen. If they're hard and green, pass them by, but if they have a golden color and good fragrance, there's no way you can go wrong. If you find them cut, be sure to check the rind color.
Mainly available in fancy fruit stores, Sharlyns are just beginning to show up in supermarkets. I predict they are going to become very popular and we'll start to see them all over the place. And I suspect that as they get more popular, growers will develop a smaller hybrid.
Sharlyns are available from late July through September.
Left whole a ripe melon will keep several days at room temperature. A cut melon should always be wrapped tightly, refrigerated, and eaten as soon as possible-the tender flesh tends to absorb odors and will easily dry out.
Preparing Melons
A good ripe melon is delicious as is, but when I have a lot of melons and want something a little different, I make a tropical fruit salad. I slice up melon and add mango, kiwi, pineapple, papaya, and fresh coconut, and sprinkle a little orange or lime juice on top. It's simple, very tropical-tasting and delicious.
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